Renowned fashion designer Payal Khandwala shares her 13-year journey into the world of minimalistic yet impactful design. Her latest collection, Release 13, reflects her evolution from an artist into a fashion innovator who champions practical elegance for modern women. With roots in painting and fine arts, Khandwala’s approach to clothing transcends traditional boundaries, focusing on functionality, versatility, and timeless appeal. This conversation delves into her creative philosophy, the challenges she faced transitioning from art to fashion, and her mission to redefine perceptions of Indian women globally.
Khandwala’s career began serendipitously after moving back to India from New York. Frustrated by the lack of versatile, comfortable clothing options, she decided to create her own line. What started as a personal need evolved into a label that resonated deeply with many women seeking alternatives to conventional styles. Her designs emphasize separates—pieces that can be mixed and matched effortlessly—offering wearers freedom and flexibility. Unlike the coordinated systems prevalent in traditional Indian attire, Khandwala advocates for modular dressing, encouraging individuals to express themselves uniquely through their wardrobe choices.
Beyond clothing, Khandwala extends her artistic sensibilities to accessories and home goods. Inspired by gaps in the market, she ventured into crafting bags, jewelry, and everyday objects like toothpick holders and bottle openers. Each item embodies her commitment to thoughtful design, aiming to elevate even mundane items into aesthetically pleasing additions to daily life. Her philosophy centers around bringing stillness and intentionality to a fast-paced, cluttered world, prioritizing longevity over fleeting trends.
Her background in art significantly influences her work. While acknowledging the distinction between art and product design, Khandwala views textiles as her canvas, applying principles learned from painting to three-dimensional forms. Proportion, color theory, and emotional responses play crucial roles in her creations. She strives for perfection while embracing imperfections inherent in handloom production, celebrating flaws that add character to each piece. Over time, this balance has allowed her to build a loyal customer base appreciative of both craftsmanship and comfort.
In discussing her latest collection, Khandwala highlights the importance of textile innovation. Starting with silks and linens, she expanded into weaving her own fabrics, collaborating with artisans in Bengal and Benaras. Handwoven elements dominate her collections, though some pieces incorporate powerloom components for affordability and efficiency. Her dedication to quality and authenticity shines through every garment.
Through initiatives like the Women of India photo series, Khandwala seeks to challenge stereotypes about Indian women. By showcasing diverse lifestyles and achievements, she aims to shift global narratives away from maximalist clichés toward realistic portrayals of contemporary women excelling in various fields. An example of her impact is seen in filmmaker Payal Kapadia, who wore one of Khandwala’s outfits at Cannes. Described as warm and unpretentious, Kapadia epitomizes the ideal wearer: someone valuing ease and self-expression above superficial glamour.
Khandwala’s story underscores the power of authenticity and purpose in creative endeavors. From addressing unmet needs in the market to championing cultural shifts, her journey exemplifies how passion combined with problem-solving can lead to meaningful contributions in fashion and beyond. As she continues refining her craft, her influence grows, inspiring others to embrace simplicity, individuality, and sustainability in their wardrobes.